Getting My Groove Back at Fox Brothers BBQ
Fox Bros started out as a catering outfit with an outpost inside Smith’s Olde Bar. While those operations still exist, they now have their own stand-alone restaurant on Dekalb Avenue just east of Moreland. As soon as you park the car, you pretty much know you have come to the right place for barbecue. The building has the appearance of a roadside shack and the smells of smoked meat surround you as you make your way in the door.
We started with an order of sliced jalapeno “chips” (a special of the day, literally its breaded slices of jalapenos), which comes with a side of ranch sauce for dipping. The Tomminator, a mound of tater tots covered in melted cheese and Brunswick stew is a treat, although very filling (go with the ½ order if there you don’t have a full table, because you don’t want to be too full for the main course).
They have all the standards you would expect- pulled pork, ribs, chicken. But the real treat here is the brisket, which really soaks in the smoky taste from the cooking process in each bite. The outside skin of the meat can be slightly charred (I actually like this), but the inside is moist and tender. In general, this is not a place that serves their meat covered in some thick sauce that hides the true taste. Here you get pure barbecue, smoky flavor and all, with the option to add a peppery vinegar-based sauce that sits on the table. I have had numerous sides and all are first rate. The Brunswick Stew (with chunks of fatback) and the hearty baked beans particularly stand out.
I have probably hit Fox Bros. every month or so since they opened last year and have never had a disappointing meal. The staff is exceptionally nice and genuinely interested in making sure your experience is top notch. With places like this in town, Fat Matt has to be worried.
Steakhead Recommends: Oh yeah