Asian Street Food with a Twist…It’s Expensive

I think the new W in Midtown is a great example of the continued progress in making Atlanta more of an urban destination. With a signature restaurant and one of the hottest clubs in the city, the non-stop parade of well-dressed, beautiful people (yours truly not included) parking their German imports at the valet and entering the chic hotel seemed endless. Spice Market had been on my list for a while not only because of its Asian-inspired menu, but also due to the reputation of Jean-Georges Vongerichten’s New York original, and my constant desire to go to the “in” places.

The Spice Market knows they are hot right now, and they let you know it by some standard “hip” restaurant annoyances. First, the mandatory wait at the bar, even though there seemed to be plenty of tables available and we had a reservation. Second, the “thump-thump-thump” of a hidden base speaker that seemed to be situated right over my head. The room they had us in was cool, however. A small, tucked-away nook down a flight of stairs that featured an Asian water feature in the middle of the room. Third, they find some bizarre, unique way to describe their concept. In the case of Spice Market, it’s “southeast Asian street cuisine”. Now I have not been to Southeast Asia, but my hunch is that street cuisine there doesn’t cost $50+ per person, so I had some immediate price/value concerns.

Since we were celebrating a profitable year for fanBunker, my business partner and I decided to splurge a little (also, I needed material for this blog, which has NOT been a profitable venture…but heck, I do it all as a labor of love). We ordered four appetizers for the four of us, which were quite hit and miss. A couple of the more exotic choices- such as the Lobster Roll with Dill and Sriracha and the Tuna Tartare were useless. The Lobster Roll was so over powered with dill, you could not taste the lobster at all. This may also have something to do with their lobster, which was rubbery and not flavorful to begin with. Same could be said for the tartare, which looked nice with small chunks of tuna over radish, avocado with a ginger vinaigrette dressing. But if you were to have told me the tuna was diced tomato, I would have been none the wiser. Other flavors just took over and the fact that it was tuna was lost on me. The lesser-expensive calamari and chicken samosas were much better choices (and probably more passable as “street food” than lobster).

Things did improve with the entrees, however. Lady Steakhead ordered the best here, selecting the Cod with Malaysian Chili sauce. My strip steak with garlic and sesame was tender and nicely seasoned. My friend ordered the short ribs, which was served in a bowl with egg noodles in a broth. He did have to inquire as to how to eat it, with which led to a ridiculous answer to take the meat out of the bowl and pour the noodles somewhere. I forget, but it seemed like a lot of work with no purpose. Speaking of service, I have had better. Our waitress was nice enough, but there were long stretches where we were totally ignored. It seemed like once we received our appetizers, she thought that was it for us.

The total bill for our group of four was $240 which definitely puts it in the pricey category if you are not on an expense report. We didn’t go nuts with the alcohol, and we didn’t order dessert, though we did go a little overboard with the appetizers so while you may be able to do it somewhat cheaper than us, probably not that much cheaper (staying away from the expensive appetizers will help). I’m on the fence as to whether I would give Spice Market a thumbs up or not. It was good, not great. And while there are plenty of places I would recommend over Spice Market in that price range, it is good to see a place that is trying to add to the Atlanta city vibe succeed.

Almost Famous at Straits

I wasn’t sure about what to expect when I walked into the celebrity-owned Straits last night. Chef Chris Yeo has partnered with Ludacris to bring his popular SF-based Malaysian concept to Midtown in the space previously occupied by Spice, and at first it may seem like an odd pairing. I mean, Yeo has been wowing Bay Area foodies for years with his take on Singaporean cuisine, and Luda (yes, we are that tight, he calls me Steak) gets people grooving to “Move Get Out the Way” (at least, that’s what I think the song is called- my only exposure to it was that they used to play it at Falcons games when TJ Duckett plowed through the line.) I’ll give them both credit, though. Ludacris partnered with a seasoned chef that brings something different to the Atlanta market, and Yeo partnered with someone who will bring in the customers. I was sort of hoping that one of them would be in the restaurant that night, but Yeo had just left town, and if Luda shows up, supposedly it’s usually after midnight. But heck, I was there, so I am sure that made someone’s night.

When I first walked in at 7pm, the place was mostly empty. Sitting at the bar sipping on a Kirin, Tears for Fears was playing (somewhat loudly) over the sound system, and I was thinking to myself “Would Luda approve of this?” It was a nice tune, however, reminding me of my days as the “guy on the scene” in 1985 (I was that hip, even at 17!). The bartender was quick to tell me that not only would it pick up, but the kitchen would likely be open until 2am that night. Why, I asked. “Because it’s Tuesday.” (Of course, silly question). There are also upscale private rooms both upstairs and downstairs for those looking to take their groove to a higher level. One day.

As the night went on, the place filled up, the music got louder, and let’s just say, more contemporary. So on to the food. The menu is filled with many small plates and you are encouraged to share everything. Even the entrée’s are quite small, so the two of us easily devoured two appetizers and two entrees. Their signature appetizer is the Kung Pao Lollipops, and these rock. They are chicken wing drums (prepared more like a “General Tso” style, than Kung Pao- but Kung Pao sounds better), covered with minced peanuts and jalapenos. I could have eaten 10 of these (you only get 4 per plate).

For the main course, we had the Tamarind Beef and the Origami Sea bass. The Tamarind Beef was served with a delicious black pepper oyster sauce. Unfortunately, the beef was slightly overcooked and not very tender for a filet. Also, this was one of the rare dishes that suffered from not enough sauce. I found myself using the beef to mop up any residual sauce on the bottom of the plate. The Sea bass was outstanding. It was cooked and served in something like a parchment covered box which kept the fish hot and moist. Flavor exploded from each bite. And given that there were quite a few mushrooms (Steakhead’s big food aversion), I still cobbled up my share.

As I look at Straits, I could definitely see myself going back for drinks and grazing on the small plates. There were so many that caught my eye (like the Crispy Wontons, Sambal Udang, and Straits Spareribs to name a few). And who knows, if you time it right- both day of week and after midnight- you may see someone famous.

Pig Roast in Midtown

This Saturday, July 26th, between 3 and 7, the new Cypress Street Pint & Plate will be hosting a Pig Roast with live music. The wifey used to live across the street from this when it was Toast (pretty forgettable), and the new name alone tells me I probably would have spent many a night here back in the day. I am really curious as to how they are going to do this in the middle of the city. Are they closing the street? Where are they setting up the spit? It does sound very tempting. I am going for lunch on Thursday and can report back on the food (as I have not been here since Toast closed), and this event. Meanwhile, anyone from CSP&P that reads this, feel free to reply with details.

Steamhouse Lounge Re-opening in Midtown Next Month

For those fans of old school Buckhead, you will be happy to know that Steamhouse Lounge will be reopening its doors next month in Midtown at the previous location of Element. From the looks of things, all the old menu favorites are returning, including the Lobster Bisque. Here is the press release:

"Atlanta, Georgia, June 10, 2008 - Steamhouse Lounge is proud to announce the reopening next month at 1051 West Peachtree St. in the former Element location in Midtown. Rediscover great fresh seafood and ice cold beer chilled on ice 364 days a year! Keeping with the true character from the Buckhead location, the relaxed atmosphere will be similar including the original bar, tables and booths inside the two-level, 100 year-old house, wrap-around outdoor deck seating shaded by a 200 year-old oak tree and patio dining complete with a palm tree and outdoor bar.

"We are excited to reopen our doors to Atlanta and all of our loyal customers throughout the years," said Steamhouse Lounge managing partner Sam Weyman. "We always intended to move to a new location and we know we found the perfect spot."

The Steamhouse Lounge menu accommodates every appetite ranging from fresh seafood to salads and classic burgers. Some menu favorites include the award-winning Lobster Bisque, Oysters on the Half Shell, Frogmore Skillet with oysters, shrimp, corn, potatoes and sausage in a spicy butter sauce served in a steaming hot skillet with garlic butter and the Lobster Roll filled with ¼ pound of Maine lobster meat served on a hot bun with drawn butter and a side item.

Nightcap, LLC. Food & Spirits owns Steamhouse Lounge along with their other restaurants that include Fontaine's, Vickery's, Highland Tap and The Depot. Proclaimed as "The Best Little Dump in Buckhead", Steamhouse Lounge originally opened its doors in 1986, only to close due to the Streets of Buckhead project. The renowned restaurant won many awards throughout the years including the Best Lobster Bisque, Best Outdoor Patio, Best Oysters, Best Seafood and more.

Steamhouse Lounge will be open daily from 11am-2:30am and Sundays from 11am-12am. For more information, interviews, photos, menu or press kit, please contact Lorrie Dixson of Eskimo Advertising at 404-441-3473 or lorrie@eskimoadvertising.com. For more information about Steamhouse Lounge, visit http://rs6.net/tn.jsp?e=001jrIObgvwUnTSx6q0kNmmrhEOePw1ccEZM1Iw8Aee1pmDbcOoSTj0Iy9YJOjeW_rpf4lIEGti5GWkuw9Ylr8EOMFwWDTbVGP_nDk5jlPwCe1QMXJa3WhwkV-GOBbghqWp."

What's Mother's Day Without Fried Goat Cheese?

Mother's Day is one of those holidays that turn places into true family-friendly restaurants that might not normally be that way. Take Ecco in Midtown, for example. I called ahead of time to see if kids would be welcome for their special Mother's Day brunch, and if they had high chairs. After hearing they would, I booked my reservation through Open Table (wanted my 100 points, you know). I later learned they don't normally carry any high chairs. They had planned to rent them for the day, but their supplier fell through. Ecco was really on the ball, and called us to let us know and to advise us to bring our own booster chair. They must have had a lot of calls to make, as most tables had small children, and many of those folks got the advanced word and brought their own boosters as well.

As soon as I told Lady Steakhead about our reservations at Ecco, she began salivating over the Fried Goat Cheese. And for good reason as I love the way the taste of the cheese mixes with the honey and peppercorns. We also sampled some of their cured meats and salamis. This was definitely the highlight of our brunch. I ordered the pizza as it was something that could be easily shared with Little Steakhead. Good, but not as good as the fried cheese. Lady Steakhead had something that resembled a quiche. It didn't live up to the fried cheese either. That's the downfall of having one of the best appetizers in Atlanta...the main courses may not live up in comparison.

The staff was great, and our waiter made sure that our Mother's Day brunch was the special occasion we were looking for. We'll definitely be back, even if its just for the fried cheese. It's that good.

NHL All-Star Ticket Giveaway at South City Kitchen

If there is one thing Steakhead likes as much as food, its hockey. And South City Kitchen has a deal that brings those two worlds together. Here is the press release:

"On Wednesday, January 16 from 6 pm to 8 pm, guests who bring a canned good to South City Kitchen Midtown or Vinings will be entered to win two tickets to the NHL All-Star Game (on 1/27 at 6 p.m.) at Phillips Arena (one raffle ticket per can – no limit, so the more cans you bring, the better your chances). Canned food will go to the Atlanta Community Food Bank. A pair will be raffled off at 6:30, 7 and 7:30 pm; you must be present to win."

Call 404.873.7358 (Midtown) or 770.435.0700 (Vinings) for reservations. I will be attending!

Allegro Opens in Midtown Tonight

Tonight marks the Grand Opening of a new Italian restaurant in Midtown called Allegro. It is located on the ground floor of the Belvedere condominium on Dutch Valley Rd., and will feature the cuisine of Central Italy. Executive Chef Jose Rego comes from Sotto Sotto, so that bodes well. According to their press release, signature menu items will include tuna carpaccio, pheasant in cream, king crab cannelloni, veal Milanese, whole fish in cartoccio, pork shank braised in milk and porterhouse alla Fiorentina for two. Prices will range in the $20-30 range for entrees. For more information on Allegro, you can visit their website at http://www.allegroatlanta.com/

Lunch at Marlow's Tavern in Midtown

I recently wrote about grabbing a drink at Marlow's Tavern in Midtown during Restaurant Week late last month. Lady Steakhead and I enjoyed a small appetizer and a beverage before our dinner at Ecco, and thought the place showed some promise as a dining destination as well. Yesterday, I gave them a shot to prove their worthiness as a lunch spot.

For those that don't know, Marlow's is located in the Plaza Midtown high-rise on West Peachtree and 8th St. The weather was near perfect yesterday, and there are a handful of small tables outside, but they also open their large windows so the larger tables immediately inside have an outdoor feel. The wait staff is very accomodating, and dressed in black, you definitely get the impression they are catering to the hip Midtown crowd.

There is no specific lunch menu, so if you want to stay under $15 for lunch, salads, burgers and wraps are your only choices. Even with the nice surroundings and good looking waitstaff, the menu unfortunately reinforces the fact that this place is a bar first. I was trying to stay healthy, so my choices were even more limited. I went with the blackened tilapia fish tacos, which was served with a bowl of fruit. Very good. But again, I would have liked to have seen a few more choices. For example, the crab cake they list for $16- how about a crab cake sandwich for $10? Or maybe a pasta dish in the same range.

I enjoyed my lunch at Marlow's but I think they could stand to put some more thought into menu. Especially with their location in Midtown, lunch, and food in general, could be a much bigger part of their business than some of their other locations. I still really like this place for a drink after work, and will be curious how it will be accepted by the Midtown clientele.

Steakhead Recommends: For drinks, and casual bar grub- Yes
Price: $$

Ecco Emerges from the Haze

When Lady Steakhead lived in Midtown a couple of years ago, the building on the corner of Cypress and 7th was a grey cinderblock nightclub called Haze. A crumbling hotel sat across the street. Today, the Spire, a gleaming glass high-rise, now sits across the street. And in the place of Haze is Ecco, the latest entry by the Fifth Group restaurants.

Ecco has been on our list for sometime, partly because we remember how this area used to look a short time ago. And with this being Midtown Restaurant Week, this was a perfect excuse to have a date night.

The day was filled with highs and lows. First the lows, I learned this was the last weekend for McCray’s in its current location. Damn, I really liked that bar. Once of the few great hangout bars in Midtown- really reminded me of NYC. Then a high- we discovered the new Midtown location of Marlow’s Tavern. This will take McCray’s place. In fact, I’m meeting a fellow Mets fan there tonight before heading down to the Ted.

But, as this blog is primarily about food, let’s get on to the main course, our dinner at Ecco. I want to give Ecco a lot of credit for giving a great selection of their regular menu for restaurant week. They didn’t cut portion sizes of the entrees, and even included an entrée that normally sells for $24. For appetizers, I went with the Mussels (the only dish on the Restaurant Week menu that is not the normal size), while LS went with the fried goat cheese with honey. I’m not a huge goat cheese fan, but this was pretty good- the cheese, pepper and honey created a nice blend of sweet and spice. I was happy to see one of the entrée choices was the chili-braised pork with pappardelle. The pork was very tender, and the red chili sauce had a good little kick to it. The wife’s choice of the braised lamb was good, but she thought a little too heavy for the time of year. My dessert was one of the oddest I have ever had- an olive oil poundcake with rosemary ice cream. And it tasted exactly like it sounds- sort of like salad dressing cookies with garlic bread ice cream. Like I said, odd.

The service was very good and the place was packed, probably due to Restaurant Week. It’s nice to see continued development of Midtown, especially off Peachtree St. This was an area you may have been nervous to walk at night several years ago. Now, it’s a destination restaurant in the shadow of Midtown high-rise living. Very cool to see.

Steakhead Recommends: Definitely for Restaurant Week
Price: $$